Wetlands Amongst Drylands
Even in low water, the big river creates habitat for all layers of creation -- sometimes in deadly situations.
Lower Mississippi River Dispatch No. 1005 Since 1995 ~ “Voice of the Lower Mississippi River” Quapaw Canoe Company, Clarksdale, Mississippi
Flora & Fungi: clockwise from upper left: Canada Goldenrod, Oyster Mushrooms, Moss-Rose Purslane, unkown bean, Sunshine Mimosa, Mullein, Hibiscus (Marsh Mallow), unknown mushroom, Camphor-weed. We have been seeing Water Hyacinth floating in the river, below the White and Arkansas River Confluences. We have also found tumbleweeds flowering, in their green stage, on some of the islands (notably Is. 67).
Fall migration is on: we've been seeing flocks of ibis, mergansers, coots, pelicans, and red-winged blackbirds. A few flocks of cedar waxwings, who seem to arrive with cold spells; also Snow Geese, who come with the cold, and fill the starry nights with their lonesome heartbreaking cries.
2025: Another Historic Low Water Year: It's so low we're also seeing a lot of fish like gar and carp getting trapped in wetlands -- those that get isolated from the big river as the water drains out, and traps them in pools and low places. Often becoming an all-you-can-eat buffet for eagles, waterfowl, coyote, and bobcat. If drought persists, these wet places eventually dry out, and the fish also. We've been seeing a lot of bobcat tracks this year, on every island we stop on and explore. We can tell what they are eating by their poop. Ditto for coyote.
Also, turtle shells and mussel shells found within dried muddy & sandy wetlands:
Monarch Migration: Every day in October we witnessed endless trails of monarch butterflies migrating downstream, seeming to follow the chain of big river islands, north to south, replenishing themselves on milkweed and goldenrod, when available. They also seem to be finding much-needed sustenance making landing amongst the bushes of Indian Heliotrope. Now that things are finally cooling down in November, the migration has slowed to a trickle. Over the past 2 weeks we have witnessed maybe one or two a day.
Mystery Tracks: Does anyone know what caused these tracks? We found them all within the same vicinity of the same sandbar beach, on water's edge leading into interior. (Sunset on the eve of Full Beaver Super Moon!) There are coyote tracks on outer edges. As if dragging its leg? Or following something else? If so, what is that something else?
Upcoming 2025 Trips Open to the Public: Sat Dec 6 - Greenville Community Canoe, 12noon - 5pm, (Meet at Warfield Point) Sat Dec 13 - Helena Community Canoe, 12noon - 5pm, (Meet at boat ramp in the Helena Harbor) Advance reservations required for all Community Canoes: 6 minimum, 18 maximum. $50 each, $25 for educators, free for kids under 18 y/o. All paddle together, no previous experience necessary, but must be willing to paddle, and must wear life jacket! Made possible in partnership with the Lower Mississippi River Foundation. See below for complete details. First Come, first served. To sign up for trips: respond to mailer, and make payment. If you’d prefer to talk first, call Quapaw Canoe Company (662) 627-4070, or “Mayfly” Ceili Hale (601) 918-6810. Sincerely yours in service of the big river!
PS: What is our favorite stretch of River? The Muddy Waters Wilderness.
Muddy Waters Wilderness:
Is a journey through some of the wildest & remote islands & forests of the Lower Mississippi. Described in a 12-page article in National Geographic Adventure Magazine, "Where the Big River Gets Lost." Great back channels & oxbow lakes to explore. Fossil finding & rock hunting at Knowlton Crevasse & Catfish Point. Great swimming throughout. Abundant wildlife, exceptional birding, world class fisheries, the greatest concentration of white tailed deer in the country, as well as the Louisiana black bear. No towns or industry. The only evidence of civilization is the towboats on the river. We’ll pass by the mouth of DeSoto Lake, where nearby its namesake explorer Hernando DeSoto is thought to have discovered the “Rio Grande,” as he called it, the “Big River.” He and his men witnessed an armada of 200 Indian canoes on the river. Some of the canoes held 70 to 80 warriors. Opposite Smith Point (Camp II) is the mouth of the White River, through which commercial traffic can access the Arkansas River through the Arkansas Post Canal. This region saw the visit of explorers Jolliette & Marquette (1673), LaSalle (1681) and John James Audubon (1820). It was also the heart of the Quapaw Nation, the Siouan tribe who followed the rivers downstream out of the Ohio River Valley and settled within the forests of this dynamic confluence. Choctaw Island Wildlife Area is the southernmost public island in the Lower Mississippi Water Trail. The route ends with passage through the notorious “Greenville Bends” whose collapsing forests and ruthless pirates & moonshiners caused much misery to steamboat pilots.
Muddy Waters: This section of Lower Mississippi river flows alongside the Mississippi Delta closest to where the late great McKinley Morganfield (AKA Muddy Waters) grew up and lived the vast majority of years of his southern life (25 years). The shuttle out includes a stop at his home site (Stovall Plantation) and passes through the landscape he played in, fished in, and worked in. Visit Clarksdale’s Delta Blues Museum before or after the journey to see the original cabin, hand-hewn from huge Cypress Logs, and learn more about the earth-shaking artistic tradition that evolved in this region, the Delta Blues. Live music every night of the week in town. Camping: The camping is spectacular on the Mississippi River — it’s like having an entire ocean beach to yourself! Full of wildlife, and the wonders of nature. The stars are almost as good as western skies. You can find 5-star camping on land, but on the river it’s million star camping! It is primitive camping, so no bathrooms or showers. But, you can swim in the Mississippi, and there is plenty of privacy when you need it. (In low water, you might have to walk 1/2 mile across sandbar to woods!). We carry everything with us for all of our trips, and go completely self-contained with all canoe and survival gear, food, water, camp and kitchen equipment, and personal items. Typical River Days: River trips flow along with a mixture of paddling (usually not more than 1-2 hours at a stretch), exploring islands, birding, beach combing, animal tracking, napping, swimming, and whatever else is of interest to you & your friends or family! Our goal is to share the profound experience of immersion in the wild beauty of the Lower Mississippi River. We arrive as visitors, and respect the landscape and the river as such, the home of the richest biota in the heart of our country, including superlative birds, fish, crustaceans, and amphibians. Micro-biotas on the Mississippi include deep water, shallow water, forests, wetlands, sandbars, and meadows. Great Wildlife: Great Birding, tracking, animal & insect sighting, fossil & rock hunting (on select gravel bars). Bring your binoculars & pocket guides. We will be paddling though some of the wildest & most remote forests in the mid-South. 60% of America’s songbirds use this flyway. Also, the richest biota in North America for many species (including White Tailed Deer). You may not see the 230 varieties of fish & amphibians, but they “see” you! The fishing is fantastic if you know what you’re doing. Cooking & eating considerations: We do all of our cooking on the campfire with cast iron cookware, pans, pots & Dutch ovens. Smoked Cowboy Coffee (our specialty) poured from enamel coffee pots, we always keep hot water in a separate pot for soups & tea. We’ll have on board big coolers with ice and several dry boxes for dry goods in case you have something extra you want to bring (ie: BYOB). Meals served on enamel camp plates, bowls & cups. Any personal food requirements? Let us know, otherwise we’ll go with whatever looks freshest & tastiest! Fantastic Swimming: Swimming: great swimming from ocean-size beaches and possible blue holes along the way. Blues holes are greenish or bluish pools of water carved directly into the sand & mud during high water, the low water leaves them in unexpected places. Best swimming in the Mississippi Delta! Pack swim gear and towels. Primitive Wilderness: This is the Lower Mississippi River. The Muddy Waters Wilderness. Save for the occasional passing towboat, there are few traces of civilizations. Every island we visit will be primitive. Bring any toiletries you need, and be ready to dig a hole when nature calls.
Wow, sure is low waters, takes me back to the river - the most magical times to be had on the Lower Mississippi, thank you to all the Quapaw's...